Addition · Merritt Island, FL
New sliding patio door stuccoed in on a Merritt Island home
A new sliding patio door had just been set in the back wall off the lanai, with raw wood jambs and foam still showing around the frame. We masked the surround and brought a fresh scratch coat right up to the new door so it reads as a clean part of the wall.
Service performed: New Construction & Additions
Where we work: Stucco repair in Merritt Island


A slider set in under a lanai roof
Both photos are taken from the slab under the roof, looking along the back wall. A new sliding unit is in the opening with one panel pushed open, and through it the room is still a shell — floor covered over, a bulb hanging on a cord, wires left out of a ceiling box waiting on somebody else's trade.
Working under cover changes the shape of a day. No afternoon storm to dodge, which is worth a lot in this county. Also no wind, less light to read a surface by, and a finished slab directly under everything you are holding. Sheeting goes down on that floor for the same reason the frame goes under paper.
Stuccoing around a sliding door without fouling the track
A slider is not a window. There is a track at the threshold, rollers riding in that track, and a panel that has to keep sliding for years after we have gone. Grit that lands in a track stays in it. Cement that sets in one is a repair, not a sweep-out.
So the fixed panel goes behind paper and tape, the threshold gets covered, and the sequence is planned so nothing has to be carried back across the open side. In the after photo the masking is cut tight to the frame and the moving half is left clear to work through.
Foam down one jamb, bare wood across the head
The before photo has the rest of the story in it. Raw lumber across the head of the opening, a bead of expanding foam run down the right-hand jamb where the new frame meets the wall, and the cut edge of the old finish standing proud beside it.
Every one of those is a junction between two materials that move at different rates in the sun. The practice is to hold the plaster off the unit on a stop and seal that junction, rather than butt cement straight onto a frame and wait for the hairline to show up along it. What is on the wall in the second photo is base work — flat, grey, left rough on purpose, because rough is what the next coat grabs.
Cracked, bulging, or just looks tired?
Send a photo or have Tony come take a look. The estimate is free.
